“Special” came out of the egg kinked. This happens sometimes with snakes. Most of the time kinked babies don’t survive, as many of them won’t or can’t eat. Kinked babies aren’t desirable for sale as anything but a pet, so many breeders cull them. I insisted on giving this one a chance, and he’s proven to be a ferocious eater! The “kink” is the flat-looking section of his body.
Out of all the snakes we bred this year, only 3 cornsnakes laid eggs and only 2 clutches have hatched. None of the ball girls caught….NOT ONE. It sucks, but it’s not uncommon for a snake breeder to have a bad breeding season. It’s possible that things were thrown off from moving, although our balls produced last year. So we have these corn hatchlings we’ll wholesale for $5 each, keep a breeder girl or two if we have a potentially good morph, or if there’s one I get particularly attached to, and hope for the best next year.
I really get annoyed when people assume that all pythons are huge, dangerous, man-eating snakes. First of all, human beings are NOT a snake’s first choice on the reptilian dinner menu. Second, they do not seek us out, they would prefer to hide from us. And people……a reticulated python is NOT venomous. Its scientific name is Python reticulatus. Reticulatus is Latin for “net-like” and refers to its pattern. They are the longest snakes, but not the heaviest. The anaconda has that in the bag. They are capable of killing an adult human, but do not attack unless that human is messing with them in their natural habitat, or the human is a dimbulb who got a big snake “cuz it’s KEWL” with NO idea in the world how to handle it. By dimbulb I mean someone who lets their 20-foot retic roam the house, or tries to handle it alone without another, strong adult to help.
Retics and Burmese pythons are often confused one for the other. Burms do not usually get as big as retics, but close; averaging 12-19 feet in length. They also reputedly have bad attitudes; I haven’t been around any to know for sure.
A ball python (Python regius) or “Royal” python is probably the #1 most popular pet snake, along with the corn snake. Your average ball python, on a diet of one weaner or small rat a week (depending on the snake’s size), can grow to an average of 3-4 feet long and as far as weight, that’s entirely dependent on how well they eat and how much you feed them. We have a couple of breeding females who are approximately 6 feet long and about 10 lbs. We feed them medium rats (which, in a pet store is sold as a “large” rat). A ball python is not scary, unless their main method of self-defense, curling up in a tight ball, is your idea of “scary”. A lot of them tend to be VERY “bitey” as hatchlings; some morphs seem to be more so than others.
Pythons are a fine species of snake and deserve a lot of respect.
This is what happens when you are in a hurry and forget to pick up your snake hook, or suitable substitute, before reaching into a hungry carpet python’s tank. Carpet pythons have notoriously bad attitudes, and when they’re hungry it’s like serpent PMS. EVERY snake keeper gets bit now and then….but this was just forgetful on my part. I’m not afraid or ashamed to admit that sometimes I make mistakes. Some of us really into the reptile world like to show off our snake bites like badges.
What did this feel like, you ask? A hundred red hot needles, a stab wound, and the same feeling you get when you sprain your wrist. The thing about snake bites, I’ve found, although they can be initially painful, the pain dulls and goes away in a short time. Always remember….wash out and bandage a snake bite IMMEDIATELY.
MY ADVICE IS FOR NON-VENOMOUS ONLY. I know very little about venomous and would never presume to give ill-informed advice.
Just had to treat the entire snake room for mites. This after we just treated snakes in the bedroom for mites. This time I vacuumed every inch of that room and sprayed Nix everywhere. It’s embarrassing to write a blog about reptiles, and give advice to new snake owners, and then have this recurring problem in my own collection. I feel that it’s necessary, however, to let the inexperienced keeper know that even we of experience sometimes have these issues. I think it was all the old mite-infested bedding under the racks. Hopefully this time, the extra diligence will pay off. It’s frustrating, but something you deal with for the creatures you love.
I frequently hear new snake keepers getting upset because their snake struck at them, or hissed at them. They freak out if the snake won’t eat for two weeks. I personally feel that if you are not going to do your research before you get an animal, any animal, then you are not ready to have one. Exotic pets in particular. You can make mistakes with a cat, or a hamster, or (most) dogs, and still come out on top in the end. Snakes and other exotics are another matter. They aren’t tolerant to as many mistakes. Their feeding and care is very precise and particular. They need certain temperatures maintained, certain humidity, and a certain environment. Their feeding needs must be strictly met with little variation.
I cringe when I hear people say they feed snakes insects. A snake’s natural diet does NOT include insects. They eat rodents and various birds. And that depends on their species. A ball python cannot be fed crickets, for example. So you can’t feed your ball python and your bearded dragon the same type of food, just because they are both reptiles.
Snakes strike at their prey, and they strike to defend themselves. They don’t have legs, so they can’t run away or stand and fight. Your snake doesn’t think like a person. A snake is not a cuddly pet who wants to be held. He wants to get away and hide. So if you approach him from behind where he can’t see you, he will bite your hand when he senses or sees it. Also, if your hand smells like rodents, he may bite. I got bitten by our carpet python the other night because I reached out to push him back into the feeding tub. This is the second time this snake has bitten me, and both times it was my own fault.
An average snake bite feels like a pinprick (baby corn) to hot needles (6-foot carpet python). Most of the time, they don’t hang on. If you are bit, do not jerk your hand away. I know that is everyone’s first impulse, but you can rip out the snake’s teeth. If he bites and hangs on, run him under cold water until he lets go. My significant other seems to be the one who is mistaken for snake food most often. He has had corn snakes, baby king snakes, and baby ball pythons grab and munch many times. To a seasoned snake keeper and lover of snakes, this actually becomes funny over time. Of course if it is a BIG constrictor snake or a venomous, it is NOT funny. We pick our battles based on our choice of serpents.
Hissing is a snake’s form of communication. It says “Go the hell away” basically. I personally feel rejected if at least one doesn’t hiss at me on a daily basis.
Snakes can go for weeks, even months, without eating. Ball pythons are particularly notorious for this. We have ball pythons who haven’t eaten worth a crap since we moved a year ago. Don’t listen to anyone who says it’s cruel to only feed a snake once a week. If they don’t understand the biology of an animal, then they have no business saying anything about it. Other reptiles need to be fed daily, such as bearded dragons, iguanas, etc. Snakes are fed on average, depending on size, age, species and breeding status, between every 5 days to every 2 weeks. Our babies are fed every 5 days until they get to a certain size, then are switched to 7. If one of them is getting too fat, particularly a male or non-breeding female, then we knock them down to every 10-14 days. And they are healthy.
LIVE vs. FROZEN/THAWED FEEDING
In our experience, any snake can get used to eating frozen/thawed rodents. Live rodents can injure your snake with their claws and teeth. Just make sure that the rat or mouse is fully thawed, and warm, or the snake won’t eat it. Put the rodent in a sandwich bag and thaw it in hot water. If your snakes are on a substrate such as aspen bedding, make sure the rodent is as dry as possible. If the bedding gets stuck all over the rodent and the snake ingests a good quantity, it will kill the snake. If it doesn’t choke him, it will block him up and he won’t be able to pass it.
It is recommended that you feed your snake in an enclosure other than his living space. The reason for this is that if you feed him in his habitat, he will associate anything coming into his enclosure with food. So you will get nailed every time you want to pick him up or need to clean his house. Some snakes, however, will not eat if you disturb them prior to feeding. Again, ball pythons are notorious for this. Our ball pythons and our pickiest corn snakes are fed in their own tubs only because they wouldn’t eat at all if we moved them first. Snake keeping takes good common sense and a lot of care. Each individual snake must be treated as an individual, just like you would any other pet.
Some people say not to use aspen bedding. We use aspen bedding for our snakes and for the rats we breed and raise. Everyone has their own feelings on this, but it’s worked fine for us. If you have ONE snake or a few, then other substrates make sense. If you have 100+, then aspen makes better financial sense. If you have 100+ snakes, breeding and raising your own rodents makes EXCELLENT financial sense.
Ball pythons should be introduced to rats from the start. You can feed them mice, I suppose, but as they grow they’ll need more and more per feeding and it gets expensive. I don’t know exactly why, but there seems to be a difference in scent between a mouse and a rat, to a snake. Our ball hatchlings are fed rats from the first feeding on. We try to do frozen/thawed from the start, but problem eaters will start with live rat pinkies. The pinkies, obviously, don’t have claws and teeth yet. Feeding is one of the many aspects of snake keeping that requires particular patience, especially if you are breeding and dealing with hatchlings.
A snake can eat a rodent that is the width of its body. Snakes unhinge their jaws to swallow their prey. It looks a little scary at first, but that’s how a snake is built.
Mites are a common snake problem. Usually found in snakes bought off Craigslist, random auction sites, or people who don’t know what they’re doing, mites are microscopic black bugs that can compromise a snake’s health if they are not dealt with PROMPTLY. If you see the snake soaking in his water a lot, and he’s not “blue” (cloudy, getting ready to shed), and the temperature and humidity of his habitat is fine, then keep your eyes open. You may see the tiny black dots in his water bowl. You may see them crawling on him. Mites like to wedge themselves under the snake’s scales, so you may want to (gently) lift a scale or two if you see a tiny black dot. Treating mites is simple enough. You have to remove all bedding, hides and water bowl, put newspaper in his tank or tub, and mix one 4-oz bottle of Nix lice shampoo with one gallon of water. An empty milk jug works great. Then pour the mixture into a spray bottle and spray down the snake, the newspaper, and the entire habitat. Leave the treatment on for at least 24 hours and then check to make sure there are no more live mites before putting everything back in with him.
A new snake, no matter where you buy it, should always be kept separate and on newspaper for at least 24 hours, in “quarantine”, if you have multiple snakes or other reptiles. Trust my experience in telling you that treating 100+ snakes in racks for mites is NOT fun.
Upper Respiratory Infections (URI)
Snakes are very susceptible to these. If their environment is too cold, or if they are overly stressed, they can develop a URI. If you see your snake opening and closing its mouth, other than to put its jaw back into place after eating, take a listen. If you hear him making a “popping” noise, chances are he has a URI and you need to get him to the vet. Most vets in more rural areas do not handle exotics, but they can give you a liquid antibiotic for the URI. Our only “exotic vet” is 45 minutes away and doesn’t know jack about snakes. So we only take a snake there with a URI…which fortunately hasn’t happened for a couple years now.
If you are planning to breed your snakes, please do extensive research first. We know what we’re doing but have not experienced all the problems that could occur, so I leave that tutorial to the more seasoned experts.
I often find that the same people that think the common garter or rat snake they saw slithering through their yard is “dangerous”, are the same people who cannot differentiate between “poisonous” and “venomous”.
To be venomous an animal must be able to inject a toxin. The common delivery systems are fangs and stingers. The toxic is stored internally usually in a specialized gland(s). A great example of a venomous snake is a rattlesnake or cobra. Toxic snakes are only venomous, there is no such thing as a “poisonous” snake. Spiders such as black widows are also VENOMOUS, not POISONOUS. Venom and poison are two truly different animals.
Poison is a toxic substance that is usually secreted from a creature’s external covering, be it skin or leaves. Poisons are not injected; instead they have to come in contact with skin or be ingested to cause harm. Poison dart frogs and poison ivy are examples of poisonous organisms. And as you know, poison ivy is not fatal unless someone has a hell of an allergy and can’t get help in time.
Another interesting little fact: Although a salamander looks like a lizard…it is not a reptile. It’s an amphibian. I found one the other day and JOKINGLY said to my kids, “hey I found a lizard”. I was corrected by my 15-year-old “It’s an amphibian, Mom”. He passed my reptile/amphibian differentiation test.